Identify, feed, help and attract wild birds to your yard and garden.

If you’ve been thinking about building your own wild bird nesting boxes for the Spring season, this article may help you determine appropriate sizes for the birds you hope to attract.

Appropriateness of size considerations are vital to bird house success. First to attract the right birds and distract the wrong ones. Next to ensure that the parents and nestlings are safe from predators. And finally correct temperature and ventilation.

How elaborate you make your bird house depends on your personal sense of aesthetics. For the most part, all the birds care about is their safety and the right dimensions: box height, depth and floor, diameter of entrance hole, and height of hole above the box floor.

Nesting Box Dimensions

Species Box floor
height
Box
height
Entrance
diameter
Entrance
height
Placement
Eastern, Western and Mountain Bluebird 5×5" 8-12" 6-10" 1-1/2" 4-6"
Chickadees  4×4 8-10 6-8 1 1/8 4-15
White-breasted Nuthatch 4×4 8-10 6-8 1 3/8 5-15
Purple Martin 6×6 6 1-2 2-1/4 6-20
Tree and Violet-Green Swallows 5×5 6-8 4-6 1 1/2 5-15

Minimize the Chance of Predator Access

Proper box depth, roof, and entrance hole design will help minimize predator (raccoons, cats, opossums, and red squirrels) access. Sometimes all it takes is an angled roof with a three-inch overhang to discourage mammals.

The entrance hole is the only thing between a predator and a bird house full of nestlings. By itself, the 3/4″ wall isn’t wide enough to keep out the arm of a raccoon or house cat.

Add a predator guard a 3/4 inch thick rectangular wood block, to thicken the wall, and you’ll discourage sparrows, starlings, and cats.

Refer to the above chart, keeping in mind that birds make their own choices, without regard for charts. So don’t be surprised when you find tenants you never expected in a house you intended for someone else.

Ventilation, Temperature and Drainage

Now that you have the correct dimensions for your bird house, take a look at how to make it safe: ventilation, drainage, susceptibly to predators, and ease of maintenance.

Without air vents, boxes can turn into bird ovens. There are two ways to provide ventilation: leave gaps between the roof and sides of the box, or drill 1/4″ holes just below the roof.

Water becomes a problem when it sits in the bottom of a bird house. A roof with sufficient slope and overhang offers some protection. Drilling the entrance hole on an upward slant may also help keep the water out.

Regardless of design, driving rain will get in through the entrance hole. You can assure proper drainage by cutting away the corners of the box floor and by drilling 1/4 inch holes in the box floor. Nest boxes will last longer if the floors are recessed about 1/4 of an inch.

Entrance Hole Sizes

Look for the entrance hole (and exit) hole on the front panel near the top. A rough surface both inside and out makes it easier for the adults to get into the box and, when it’s time, for the nestlings to climb out.

If your box is made of finished wood, add a couple of grooves outside below the hole. Open the front panel and add grooves, cleats, or wire mesh to the inside.

Never put up a bird house with a perch below the entrance hole. Perches offer starlings, house sparrows, and other predators a convenient place to wait for lunch.

Don’t be tempted by those beautiful duplexes or houses that have more than one entrance hole. With the exception of purple martins, cavity-nesting birds prefer not to share a house. While these condos look great in your yard, starlings and house sparrows are the only birds inclined to use them.

Filed in: Bird Houses, Wild Birds

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7 Comments Posted

Ronald Brand
March 23rd, 2008 at 1:51 am

Hi:
I found out if you mount your feeder’s and bird house’s on top of medial poles or pvc plastic poles,(squirrels)
can’t clim them make sure not to put them to close to fenches or tree’s,this way they can’t jump to them.I live in upper State Ny Albany area the city of Troy Ny zip is 12180.I also made a bird house, that is never been made be for,do you have to get a patten for this? I know you would love this one.If you wish you can call me on my cell phone (518) 368-1295 I would like to tell you about it.

raza
March 28th, 2008 at 4:23 am

the box must be hanged at the place near but not reachable to a pet dog. then u can see the difference that any predator would not dare to touch and birds can feed without any fear. i have tried this and it works successfuly.

reply me and send me some beautiful pictures of boxes for different birds

Brenda
May 26th, 2008 at 10:12 am

Verionca,
Sorry I can’t help with the starling or squirrels. Over the years I have just tried to deal with them always seems a diffrent way. Right now the starling are terrible I don’t think we have ever had so many.
Brenda
Western North Carolina

Brenda
May 26th, 2008 at 10:13 am

Does anyone have ideas about the starling problem ?
Brenda
Western North Carolina

carolyn
February 28th, 2009 at 7:02 pm

Hi,
I have a nesting box do I need to put nesting material on the bottom or will the bird put that in by itself?
pls advise
Thank you

Barb
March 4th, 2009 at 4:08 pm

Thanks for the tips! You helped me rehab an old birdhouse to be safer for its occupants!! Barb

trevor
September 20th, 2009 at 11:01 pm

I agree that mounting the feeders on metal poles and pvc pipes works but most of mine are hung from the eve of our house with the exception of one SOLAR LIGHT BIRDBATH, FEEDER & PLANTER GARDEN DECOR which attracts squirrels and racoons almost nightley so i just put verry little food in the ones that can be accesed by rodents the starlings will eat almost anything you put out but hanging feeders along wires between trees seems to work well for squirrels along with some of the squirrel proof feeders.

Trev
Eastern PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND

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